Category: Arts
Collecting Vintage Perfume Bottles: The History of Perfume Bottles
The History and Evolution of Perfume Bottles (courtesy of http://www.perfumes.com/eng/bottles.htm)
Perfume Bottles in Ancient Times
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The enticing scent of the perfect perfume and the eye-catching elegance of the bottle has been an important part of world culture since ancient times. The oldest known perfume bottles came from the Ancient Egyptians. They crafted containers made of stone and alabaster which kept the perfume cool, and prevented the liquid from leaking. The Ancient Egyptians also used clay pots that they sculpted into designs of people and animals.
Perfume was an important part of the Egyptians preparation of the dead. Many of these ancient perfume bottles have been found in tombs. Containers have been found made of wood with different compartments for each perfume.
Glass bottles were also a part of ancient perfume history. They date all the way back to the fifteenth century BC. Perfume bottles made of glass were lightweight, and also prevented the liquid from leaking. Eventually the glass bottles were created in a variety of colors.
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Perfume bottles discovered in Palestine were made of glass, and were designed to have a narrow long neck. These delicate bottles were primarily found in tombs. Larger perfume bottles were also found in tombs because it was believed to mask the smell of the dead bodies.
The Ancient Greeks also made beautiful containers to hold their perfume. They hand painted vases which were often shaped as animals. They used lidded bowls for holding less expensive perfumes.
The Roman’s cherished their perfumes. They used hollowed-out precious stones to carry their most valuable fragrances.
Early European Perfume Bottles
Europeans used many different materials to store their precious perfumes. The most common materials that were used were glass, gold, silver, porcelain, semi-precious stones and shells. Perfume was commonly used in the form of incense. Some incense burners consisted of a container held from chains that was swung like a pendulum during Mass in the Christian Church. Stationary incense burners were also commonly used in Churches.
Some European perfume containers were designed to be worn. Semi-precious stones held perfumes and were pinned to clothing. Silver earrings were worn that contained perfume soaked fabric inside of them. Many containers were designed to be hung around the neck, from a belt, or from a finger ring.
Perfume bottles were handcrafted and designed by artists, jewelers and goldsmiths. Each bottle was gently crafted and designed to be worn, or displayed on a table.
Small wooden boxes were created to hold a sponge soaked with perfume. These boxes would fit inside a pocket and could be taken out and inhaled at any time.
Porcelain was used in the Thirteenth Century. Many highly decorative bottles were created. Boxes were created that included perfume and other essentials. Some boxes contained several bottles of perfumes, a funnel and a mixing dish.
Most fragrances during this time were first sold in inexpensive, plain bottles. Then the perfume was transferred into a fancy bottle at home.
Perfume Bottles of the Early 1800s and 1900s
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The design of perfume bottles made a dramatic change in the late 1800’s. There was a great incline of the arts movement called Art Nouveau. Most Art Nouveau designs consisted of floral motifs, and were primarily used to design the perfume label and box, leaving the perfume bottles fairly traditional in styling.
Several famous pieces of this time were the Bouquet Nouveau, Royal Vaissier, and Cri du Coeur. The Bouquet Nouveau was a Roger & Gallet perfume. It had a square green-glass bottle with an unusual gilded brass casing. Royal Vaissier displayed magnificent Art Nouveau style paper motifs in the form of a fleur de lys designed by Baccarat. Cri du Coeur (Cry from the heart) was a Lorenzy-Palanca powder box. It had a woman-flower image which is a rare high-style Art Nouveau icon.
Belle Epoque was the preferred style for perfume presentations at this time. The style tended to be traditional, cluttered, very elegant and very French. Examples of perfume bottles of this style were Coronis by Monpelas and Roger & Gallet’s Gloire de Paris.
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A new trend in perfume bottles was to create a bottle that looked like a luxurious crystal with an elaborate brass cap. The bottles had classic designs, and the brass caps matched the ornate gold labels and boxes. A few examples of this style were Rose Ispahan and Prince Igor by Riguard, Rose de Chiraz by F. Wolff & Sohn, Stylis by Delettrez, Eros by Richard Hudnut, Le Lilas by Riguard, and Mavis by Vivaudou.
During the 1910’s, there was a noticeable shift in the design of the traditional perfume bottle. The emergence of psychology and new perfume creations led to much more complex perfume bottles and names. The power of suggestion and dreams was having a huge effect on cultures in general, and perfumes were also affected. Perfumes were being marketed for specific times of day, seasons, and people.
Guerlain introduced the perfume “Voila pourquoi j’aimais Rosine” (That is why I loved Rosine). The bottle resembled a vase, and the stopper was concealed under silk flowers. The bottle shape was again used in Guerlain’s “Muguet” (Lily of the Valley). It was later re-introduced in all white with a white ribbon replacing the silk flowers. This presentation was an immediate success. Guerlain later introduced “Le Mouchoir de Monsieur” (The Gentleman’s Handkerchief) which had an innovative bottle with the shape of a triangle and a spiral motif on each side.
Rene Lalique was approached in 1906 by the perfumer Francois Coty to design the bottles for his perfumes. Coty was well established in the perfume industry and desired both beautiful and affordable bottles to hold his perfumes. Lalique was successful in fulfilling Coty’s wishes, and continued to design bottles for his future creations. His most famous designs include Au Coeur des Calices, L’Entrainement and Ambre Antique. He also designed bottles for other perfumers. Some of his most famous creations were developed for Houbigant, Roger et Gallet, D’Orsay, Forvil, and Arys and Molinard.
Other creative perfume bottles of this time were “Rediviva” (Revived) by La Compagnie Francais du Lysogene. It was shaped like a porcelain coffeepot, and the perfume was dispensed through the end of the spout. Illusion was presented by Dralle in 1908. It had a silver case shaped like a lighthouse, and the perfume bottle was held inside of the case.
The Oriental Movement in Paris began in 1910 by Paul Poiret, a famous French fashion designer. Pioret introduced an Oriental style in clothing, furnishings and perfumes. Women, who longed to wear the gowns he designed, but could not afford them, could still wear his perfume. For women who did wear his collections, the perfume was the final touch. Poiret developed a new perfume “Chez Pioret” with beautiful and innovative packaging. The bottle was made of clear glass with a colored glass stopper. It was decorated with gold tassels, and had a new label with a classic “R”. Pioret used his boxes as a tool for expressing the style of the fragrance.
Bichara Malhame was a very successful perfumer in Paris. His famous label on his perfumes portrayed himself seizing a mythological figure of Fortune by the hair. He also appeared on a Baccarat stopper wearing a wig, and appearing as an English judge.
Perfume Bottles of the 1920s
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The 1920’s brought a new era to perfumes. After World War I, many American Soldiers brought perfumes back to the states from Paris. This greatly influenced the perfume market in the United States. The perfume industry expanded rapidly, and many new perfume companies emerged.
Many fashion designers expanded their merchandise by including perfume. Most of these designers knew very little about creating a good fragrance, but they did know about style. They understood the importance of the visual presentation, which became vital to the success of the perfume.
Mascarades were very popular at this time, and had a strong influence on perfume bottles. “Masque Rouge” was introduced in a very modern bottle, and the box had a red mask motif. “Mascarades” by Cherigan came in a black bottle with a golden face under a rain of gold dust. “Arlequinade” was a Rosine perfume which resembled a Harlequin costume. It had gilded and clear triangles on the bottle, and a dark-green Bakelite stopper in the form of Harlequin’s hat and an orange wood tassel.
“Bakanir” was introduced in 1927 by Honore Payan. The bottle was a simple geometric shape with a stopper resembling an exotic headdress. The box was covered with painted leather with a ceramic plaque. It was one of the most luxurious presentations for perfume.
Baccarat perfume bottles were designed using superior quality crystal. They designed bottles for most of the perfume companies during this time. Two of their famous perfume bottles were designed in 1927. “Silver Butterfly” by Delettrez was made of pink crystal with silver ornamentation. It was designed in the shape of a vertical hexagon with an abstract motif. “Astris” by L.T. Piver was shaped as a star, and featured a silver six-pointed motif.
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One of the most famous perfumes, Chanel No 5, was released by Chanel in 1921. The perfume was revolutionary in scent and presentation. The bottle was a very simple design. The perfume was intended to make the masculine world available to women.
Perfume Bottles of the 1930s
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With the stock market crash of 1929, and the depression that devastated the United States, the perfume market slowed down dramatically. There remained a more limited demand in Paris, and only the strongest companies such as Baccarat, Brosse and Lalique were able to continue. The bottles became less elaborate, tended to be conservative and were often machine made.
Perfume bottles during this time were less frequently inspired by nature, and more often reflected Hollywood movies and metropolitan cities. Lalique designed the presentation for “Je Reviens” by Worth. The bottle resembled New York skyscrapers. It was a tall ribbed bottle in dark-blue glass. The stopper was sky blue, and the box had a chrome surface. It was a very modern presentation.
Jean Patou released the perfume “Normandie” in 1935. It was inspired by the luxury ship the Normandie. All First Class Passengers on the ship’s maiden voyage were given a souvenir model of the Normandie. Inside the model of the ship was a crystal bottle of perfume.
Perfume Bottles of the 1940s
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World War II caused another decrease in new perfume creations, as well as a decline in the quality of perfume presentations. After the war, the perfume industry was re-established, and many new perfumers emerged.
Christian Dior and Nina Ricci both presented works of art that strongly influenced the perfume industry. “Miss Dior” by Christian Dior was offered in an elegant clear crystal Baccarat bottle. Dior used a classic look that was elegant and luxurious. Nina Ricci was known for feminine and romantic creations. L’Air du Temps was released in 1948 and sold in a sunburst shaped bottle. The stopper was decorated with a dove. The lid of the box was lined with white silk and depicted a woman and a flying dove. The 1951 box was in the shape of a birdcage covered in yellow silk, and was illuminated by a battery.
Perfume Bottles of the 1950s
http://www.zensoaps.com/perfumesale/C-danatabu.jpg Perfumes once again became inspired by romance in the 1950’s. Salvador Dali designed the bottle for “Monsieur Marquay” by Marquay. The bottle featured an elegant man with a top hat and bow tie. The box was simple white with Dali’s moustache and signature.
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Christian Dior introduced “Diorissimo” in 1956. The special edition bottle was designed by Baccarat. The crystal bottle was in the form of an amphora, and the stopper had a magnificent flower bouquet in gilded bronze designed by Chrystiane Charles.
“Magie” was released by Lancome in 1950. Every Christmas a special edition was released. It was presented in a Baccarat spherical bottle with stars, and a box covered in leather or satin.
Modern Day Perfume Bottles
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Pierre Dinand was the first perfume bottle designer to produce perfume bottles exclusively. Dinand designs bottles with a modern feel, and uses the bottle as an expression of the perfume. He has produced numerous bottles using state of the art plastics, and has transformed perfume bottles in the 1980’s and 1990’s.
Serge Mansau is another modern day perfume bottle designer. He prefers to focus his designs on nature’s beauty. His prize winning bottle for “Montana” was inspired by a maple seed. He has used flowers, stones and waterfalls as ideas for his bottle designs.
Jewelers have also entered the perfume business. Van Cleef & Arpels were the first jewelers to release a fragrance. Cartier followed An Cleef & Arpels with the bottle for Panthere in 1986. Tiffany, Bvlgari, Chopard and Boucheron have also launched fragrances.
Baccarat and Lalique continue to design the highest quality perfume bottles. Perfume bottle collecting has also become very popular. Most collectable perfume bottles come from French perfumes and date from the 19th and 20th centuries.
Modern day perfume bottles are expected to give the feel of the fragrance. The perfume bottle makes the first impression, and often helps the buyer decide if they want to add the fragrance to their personal collection.
Tips for Collecting Vintage Perfume Bottles
Always Keep an Eye out for opportunities to add to your collection! You never know where or when you could stumble upon the perfect bottle to add to your growing collection. Check out estate sales, garage sales, flea markets, antique stores, and specialty vintage perfume bottle websites online. You may even be able to find one or two in your own family, so ask around! What could be more special than a family heirloom perfume bottle in your collection? Decide how you want to collect your vintage perfume bottles. Do you want to only collect a certain brand? Or maybe you want to collect only perfume bottles manufactured during a certain time period? Creating a theme for your collection will make your collection as a whole more valuable and interesting. Do your research. It is good to know a little bit about what you are collecting before you start shopping! This way you will know if you happen to stumble upon a rare, unique find! Knowing a lot about your new hobby will also help you stay engaged. Books such as the Antique Trader Perfume Bottles Price Guide and The Wonderful World of Collecting Perfume Bottles, by Jane Flanagan are great resources for perfume bottle collectors. Don’t discard the mini bottles! When you are shopping for perfume bottles, snatch up the mini sizes of your favorite brands. Sometimes, these are rarer and are worth more than their larger counterparts! Check local events and conventions. You never know when a vintage perfume bottle convention could be coming to a town near you. These are great opportunities to learn more about perfume bottles and find some really great deals and unique bottles. Become a member of the IPBA. The International Perfume Bottle Association. Being a member of this association gives you access to exclusive newsletters and information about vintage perfume bottles. They also hold events each year, including a convention, conference, and perfume bottle auction.
Sun-Tzu wrote “military affairs are country’s vital political concerns,” and in order to do that you need to have good intelligence gathering agencies, and if you possess less resources than your enemies the more vital information is to your cause. The nation of Israel has that very problem, and with enemies that are willing to fight for centuries every strike has to count.
Like many nations today Israel has to deal with conventional military threats and fanatics in their mists and from outside their country. In any conflict training is important and Mossad values it and continuously improves it to deal with new enemies.
Mossad which is Hebrew for “institute” was created to help better coordinate Israel’s intelligence gathering agencies, and among its responsibilities is gathering for human intelligence, covert paramilitary actions, and counterterrorism operations. The agency was influenced heavily by the CIA model, and it quickly produced results for the new nation.
The agency’s roots began in the Mossad Le’aliyah Bet which was dedicated to bring in Jews to Palestine despite British immigration laws restricting the number of immigrants to the region, but once Israel became a nation the group’s focus shifted to intelligence work. Reuven Shiloah became the first Director of the Mossad and would obtain the Arab League in the first Arab-Israeli War. Over the years the agency has had many critics, but few dispute the fact that they get the job done.
Today Mossad’s headquarters is in the Israeli city of Tel Aviv, and employs an unknown number of agents, but it is believed that there are 8 departments and over 1,000 active agents. Among the agency’s departments is the Special Operations Division which is charged with assassinations, sabotage, and psychological warfare. Other departments handle aspects concerning intelligence work including maintaining diplomatic relations with Israel’s enemies and the agency has its own research and development departments, but like all others little is known about their operations.
Since Israel had mandatory military service it is safe to assume the majority of their agents have been trained in close combat and many have combat experience. The Israel martial art Krav Maga is taught to operatives for self defense as well as knife fighting and sentry removal. Many veterans of the agency worked as commandos in the Israeli Defense Force, so their operations have been influenced by this experience as well as the street fighting they have had to do over the years.
A Mossad case officer or katsa spends three years training in the Mossad’s academy near the town of Herzliya. There they learn how to recruit intelligence assets and avoid enemy agents. They’re believed to operate in the Middle East and Europe, but some believe they operate in the United State also, and prior to the September 11th attack Mossad warned the United States that some 200 enemy terrorists were in the country though they didn’t know specifically what they were doing.
The truth is still in the shadows when it comes to many operations, but agents have used bombs, bullets and have even kidnapped people to accomplish their goals, and only recently torture has been officially banned by the state. Operations have involved everything from chasing down Nazi war criminals to hunting down and killing terrorists. During the Six Day war in 1967 Israeli intelligence was responsible for helping to destroy much of Egypt’s air force, but also caused the attack on the United States Navy technical research ship, USS Liberty.
Like any intelligence agency your failures are public and your successes are private, but overall the Israelis are at the top of there game. Like martial arts themselves, intelligence is a force multiplier that lets you do more damage with less, and Israel will always be at a disadvantage, but it doesn’t mean they can’t win.
Climate change is a stark reality and represents one of the greatest environmental, social and economic threats facing the planet. I feel, as a designer, it’s our responsibility to bring these issues of international relevance across the society” said Puneet Gupta. A bridge between beautiful homes and inspiring home makers, the party witnessed the who’s who of fashion circuit enjoying to their best. Some of the guests seen chatting were Rohit Bal, Shibani Kashyap, Charu Parashar, Thenny, Raghavendra Rathore, Thenny, Nida Mahmood, Ramneek Paintal, Blossom Kochhar, Vijay Arora, Sanjay Kapoor, Varun Bahl, Ashima and Leena and many more.
Shyamal and Bhumika, best known for their India inspired collection, incepted their fashion journey in 2006 with Lakme Fashion Week. They have now successfully made a mark in the industry as they continue to mesmerize buyers and fashionst as with their Indian designs. Stylekandy.com caught up with the designers to know more about their preferences and design sensibilities. Ask them the reason for taking up fashion designing as a career and Shyamal reveals, “I wanted to become an architect since childhood. Probably it was the family influence since my dad belongs to designing field mom is a jewellery designer. Bhumika adds, “I am a NIFT graduate and when I met him we thought of launching our own in 2009.” The duo look India-wards for inspiration. “Our designs mostly incorporate an Indian element- hand embroideries and Indian handicraft. Even abroad, most of our clients are Indian, who actually crave for ethnicity in clothing. When we have to design for the western market, we keep global aesthetics in mind. Handicrafts are our forte”, explained Shyamal.
“When making western designs, we certainly refer to the global forecast. However, the ultimate decision is taken by our hearts. Despite the prediction we always decide on instinct and creativity”, uttered Bhumika. On a lighter note, we asked them what is the best compliment they have ever got. “Our collections have always been appreciated by people. It feels amazing when people email us or come and say that they love our work or they looked lovely in the designs. Also, there is no bigger compliment than feeling satisfied by ones own designs!” they speak diplomatically in tandem. They feel that designer play a huge role in reviving art and craft. “Almost all designers use some kind of handwork. That ways, the art gets promoted and craftsmen are benefitted. It is true that exploitation of this class exists, more so in rural areas, but one should make a conscious effort to remain fair and just. We should not depend on the government to help them out” Bhumika opines. Their idea of style is very simple and sophisticated. “When I have to style my self, I make it semi casual. Probably a simple basic coat with a subtle, extra noticeable element in it, paired with denims which are comfortable.” When not designing, Shyamal like reading books and short stories. “I also design interiors since I like architecture.” Enjoy exploring various cultures through travelling and horse riding are some of the other hobbies the duo enjoy.
A liberal arts degree program offers a more well-rounded learning experience than a technical, vocational or business program. These programs introduce students to books as well as the philosophy and science that form disciplined and creative habits of thought. A liberal arts degree program trains an individual how to think rather than what to think and can lead to endless possibilities.
What does a liberal arts education have to do with the realities that graduates will face after college? The development of the capacities for critical thinking associated with a liberal arts degree program education can be extremely practical because these are the foundation on which to draw for decision making, continual learning, and for making a difference in the workplace.
Given the pace of social and technological change, it does not make sense to devote multiple years of higher education to studying one specific area or skill set. A liberal arts degree program will train an individual to think and draw on one’s education over a lifetime, which is much more practical and precious than mastering a field that is constantly evolving. A liberal arts degree program should teach students to figure out what they love to do, improve in that field and provide them with the ability to develop and continue to learn so that are able to adapt to change rather than become victims of change.
A successful liberal arts degree program develops an individual’s capacity for judgment and innovation. Individuals who are able to best reconfigure existing resources and project the results of the future will be the individuals who shape and mold our culture and economy. We are seldom presented will the information we would like, a liberal arts degree program will teach you how to work with what you are given and act accordingly. The ability to think that is developed in a liberal arts context usually results in combinations of flexibility and focus that make for intelligent and courageous risk taking decisions.
Liberal arts degree programs also put an emphasis on subjects that are often over-looked by other educational programs. Liberal Arts programs emphasize the importance of art and athletics in education as well as the importance of core subjects like reading, writing, science and math.
Liberal arts degree programs emphasize the importance of athletics year-round and spring is on different. Some of the sports emphasized by the NCAA and liberal arts programs around the nation include baseball, golf, lacrosse, rowing, softball, tennis and more.
Spring offers more NCAA sports than any other season. The NCAA offers six sports for male athletes and seven sports for women athletes during the spring. Both men and women participate in golf, lacrosse, tennis and outdoor track & field. Men also participate in baseball and volleyball while women also participate in rowing, softball and water polo.
Business programs as well as vocation and technical programs often overlook the importance of athletics and arts in education while liberal arts programs emphasize the importance. Liberal arts degree programs focus on a more well-rounded education and the importance of “how to think”, which enables an individual to thrive in almost any situation.
Styles of the early 20th century are nowadays considered to be contemporary. Victorian designs and Gothic houses are becoming common among various Indian cities. With urbanisation in India in full swing, construction of houses has been most affected. A trend which has undeniably rooted itself among the people in India is the building of houses of their own to live in. Many people are buying lands or apartments and giving their houses a customised look with housing plans and designs in India. Much of the contribution to these trends has come from the architects in India, who have taken up the designing work in a global concept. Every aspect of Indian house interior design is being done, so that they can be well compared with anything in the west.
Online support by architects for every section of the house Plenty of elements are being provided by the Indian architects, so that the houses look modern, retaining the traditional values. They are able to provide these Indian house plans designs through online means, so that people living in any part of the country can have ideas and inputs from the best designers. Online mode of Housing Plans and Designs in India also helps in quicker delivery. These plans are done in various dimensions, with complete renderings and plans. Each room is being planned in a way, which will complete the whole building. Such outlays are being prepared, keeping in mind the auspicious directions and vaastu arts. Not only is the foundation and pillaring designed at this level, the house interior designs are also planned with 3D sketches. Real photographs are also provided to the customers, so that they get the actual feel of the house, when it would be completed. Any changes are also incorporated quickly and the Indian house plans designs are given out with immediate results.
Interior designing with variations in colours, furniture and lighting Adding to the modernistic touch of housing plans and designs in India is the house interior designs. Such designs are possible to be modified in manners, where the tastes of the owners are also taken into account. But, as architects for Indian house interior design, there are also valuable inputs in different aspects. Such inputs can range from colour combinations to the style of furniture. It would be amazing to know the extent to which variations can be brought in, for popularity of architectural styles. Wooden furniture can be lacquered in black. Colours like gray, purple, pale blue and green and be mixed with white and black. Steel and chrome finish furniture can be matched with white marble and glass. Table lamps, concealed or background lighting can be used in rooms. These are the works of interior decorations, which can be assembled with the overall Indian house plans designs.
Giving different levels of exposure to the house designs To give a global appeal to the Indian house interior design, many of the architects are trying to throw in the element of sunray, passing into the rooms. For this purpose, ceilings are made of glass, in part, while the windows are kept large. Enough sunlight can pass through into the rooms, while other portions are well protected from sunlight and natural breeze is allowed to flow in. Such variations are able to give a global appeal to the house interior designs. They are also eco-friendly. These designs are being generated through computer renderings and shown to the house owners, who immediately adopt them in their construction process.
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